Ahhh, Costa Rica. Land of balmy beaches, green cloud forests and the happiest people on earth. Perhaps you’ve been wanting to go there. As a regular visitor to this paradise, I’m here to offer tips for your first visit to the “rich coast.”
Brief Synopsis:
Costa Rica was discovered in 1502 by Christopher Columbus and ruled by Spain for several hundred years. The country has no armed forces and devotes its budget to conservation - almost 1/3 of the land is protected in reserves and national parks. Currency is the “Colon,” named after Columbus, and touristy areas accept U.S. dollars. Tourism is the country’s main source of income and exports include coffee, chocolate and bananas.
Culture:
Costa Ricans call themselves “Ticos.” The official language is Spanish but many locals speak English. They’re proud of their values - family, free education and healthcare for all. You won’t see beggars or people without homes. Costa Rica is a world leader in sustainability and environmental conservation. “Pura Vida” or pure life is not only their customary greeting and farewell, but also their philosophy.
Food:
Part of Pura Vida is eating clean, so you won’t find much fast food or junk food. Small restaurants are called “sodas” and offer the most local fare.
Foods to try:
Gallo pinto - This national dish comprised of rice, beans and spices is served at breakfast. The name means “colored rooster” and the dish looks like rooster feathers. Try it with Lizano salsa.
Casado - A plate with rice, beans, a protein like fish or a chicken leg, some corn. Every casado is different but whatever it is, it will be good.
Batidos - Fresh fruit smoothies with milk, condensed milk and ice are a staple. Try the maracuyás (passion fruits), guayava or mamey flavors.
Getting There:
Juan Santamaria Airport (SJO) is the largest and busiest, located in the capital, San Jose. This is the most convenient airport if you’re traveling to the Caribbean coast, Monteverde, La Fortuna, or the Pacific coast near Manuel Antonio National Park. Guanacaste Airport (LIR), known as Liberia, is smaller and easier for getting to the beaches in Guanacaste.
Getting Around:
Buses - Popular with budget travelers. Buses are inexpensive but travel can take all day. Best for backpackers and visitors with plenty of time.
Shuttles - Large hotels, such as the JW Marriott Guanacaste Resort & Spa, offer shuttles from the airports. Shuttles are fine if you stay at a resort and taxi to nearby destinations.
Car rentals - The best choice for flexibility. Plan to pay at least double the quoted rate in insurance costs. Highways are mostly two lanes, so an accident ahead can double your travel time. Rent a 4WD vehicle, as most roads aren’t paved. That’s part of the adventure!
Highlights:
Guanacaste - Guanacaste beaches draw surfers and yoga enthusiasts from around the world. Tamarindo is the largest beach town, filled with shops, restaurants and hotels. Nearby you’ll find Playa Negra’s bohemian culture and surf shacks, Playa Avellana’s famous “Lola’s” beach café, and Playa Junquillal for watching the release of baby sea turtles. Hotels, villas and eco-lodges
abound. For a remote couple's retreat, check out Mundo Milo Eco Lodge. For surfing, reserve Mauricio’s surf lessons at Avellanas Surf School. If an inland ranch vacation with horseback riding near volcanoes sounds appealing, stay at Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin and visit the Rincon de la Vieja National Park and the Llanos de Cortes waterfalls.
Nicoya Peninsula - Quiet luxury is found in this area about two hours from both airports. The area has grown in popularity since Gisele Bundchen bought a house there, but it’s not crowded. The towns of Santa Teresa and Playa Grande offer good beaches for younger children. Near the busy town of Samara is Playa Carillo, with calm waters and a protected cove. Samara has more nightlife
than a typical Costa Rican town, as nightlife is not a big thing in this country. Spa vacations and yoga retreats are also common offerings.
Mountains and Rainforest - The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve is home to 2.5 percent of the world’s total biodiversity. National Geographic calls Monteverde “the jewel in the crown of cloud forest reserves.” Hire a guide to take you through the forest during
the day, and another guide for a night tour. We loved Roy’s Monteverde Nature Guides. Also try riding horses with Marvin and his crew at Horse Trek Monteverde, or tour a coffee plantation with Don Juan Tours. If you prefer a busier town catering to tourists, La Fortuna is a jumping-off point for adventure activities like rafting and zip lining, and it has a stunning view of the Arenal Volcano. For a fabulous spa experience, visit Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa to relax under its waterfalls.
Manuel Antonio Area - Beach towns closest to this esteemed park include the bustling villages of Quepos and Jaco, along with quieter beaches like Uvita and Playa Ventanas. The Beehive Restaurant in Uvita serves Mediterranean fare inside a rainforest setting. A visit to Manuel Antonio National Park is a must for seeing sloths, monkeys and a variety of birds. Reserve an early-
morning guided tour and spend the afternoon swimming the stunning cove beaches inside the park.
Caribbean Coast - This area is less developed than the Pacific beach towns. The locals are mainly of Afro-Caribbean descent so there’s more of a reggae-Rasta vibe. Tortuguero National Park is filled with wildlife and the best place to see Atlantic Green Sea Turtles. Puerto Viejo is the most hopping town, and Punta Uva is the one of the least-touristy beach villages in Costa Rica.
Osa Peninsula - My personal favorite area, but a long way from the main airports. Corcovado National Park is one of the most biologically diverse places on Earth with some of the best hikes and beaches in the world. You must have a guide in order to hike the park. Stay in Drake Bay to see the most pristine rainforests in Costa Rica. You’ll need to fly there from the San Jose airport and land on a little airstrip in the jungle. That’s why it’s so beautiful – not many tourists go there!
Dos and Don’ts
DO respect the locals’ dedication to the environment by re-using cups, bags, towels, etc. as much as possible.
DON’T overpack. Most rental cars have space for four people and four carry-on suitcases. All you need are casual outdoor clothes and a rain jacket if you’ll be in the cloud forest. Leave the dressy shoes, handbags and makeup at home.
DO be flexible with your schedule. Costa Rica is still a third-world country and sometimes roads are blocked or electricity goes out. Get used to being on "Tico" time – you might find you love it!
DON’T book flights without checking the weather. Costa Rica has two seasons: Wet (rainy) from May to November, and dry from
December through April. Some areas are closed in September and October.
DO visit Costa Rica if you love the outdoors, are comfortable in remote environments, and enjoy simple-living vacations.
DON’T be afraid to cry in the airport when it’s time to leave. The locals are used to it!
“Pura Vida” or pure life is not only their customary greeting and farewell, but also their philosophy.