Throughout the streets of Japan’s busiest cities, the blending of the traditional and the modern is always on display. Centuries-old cherry blossom trees bloom among sky-high radio towers and high-end shopping districts. Kimono shops and tea houses are located near anime-themed restaurants, foot bath cafés, and hip coffee houses. Even the women merge old-style fashion influences with contemporary designs.
The land of the rising sun attracts tourists seeking both the simplicity of Zen gardens and top-dollar, trendy omakase, or chef-curated meals. Professional photographers are often on hand to capture families exploring the juxtaposition of Japan’s culture featuring old-world elements and modern comforts.
“Japan has such an identifiable landscape,” says South Charlotte resident Elizabeth Quon, who lived in Japan for seven years before moving to the Queen City in 2022. “The architecture, street-scene, temples, shrines, kanji lettering on the hanging signs—you know you’re in Japan immediately when you see pictures.”
On a trip to Japan this spring, Quon’s family hired popular photographer Ayako Ohkawa [@fleurandhoney on Instagram] to document their journey. “Ayako studied the art of dressing in a kimono and knows the alleyways and neighborhoods to shoot in.”
The rise of social media and the Japanese Imperial family’s use of Instagram to connect with the people has also added to how Japanese present themselves visually.
“There’s more of a trend to snapshots of everyday life in natural backdrops—busy streets, retail shops and noodle or sushi counters—instead of elaborate backdrops or staged scenes,” Quon says.
Quon thinks the love of taking pictures stems in part from the Japanese belief that every moment has a story, and every picture captures that storyline.
Here are three cities to add to your own story while capturing both the traditional and modern culture of Japan.
TOKYO
Pick a hotel in a central location near a subway, the fastest and most cost-effective way to see the city. Take the subway to the 2,080-foot Skytree, the centerpiece of the city, which offers 360-degree breathtaking views.
Book “Tokyo Sushi-Making Tour” to learn about the history of Japan’s most famous food and roll your own lunch. Snap a shot of the “sushi pose,” where you sculpt and press the rice to get that typical sushi look. Take the train to Shinjuku, the part of the city that you probably imagine when you think of Tokyo: a sea of people, high energy, neon signs and tall buildings.
“We chose our family photo shoot here, and we wanted to have fun with it,” says Quon. “Since we were shooting down a yokocho (alleyway) in Shinjuku, we insisted we wear streetwear.”
Quon recommends shopping at Uniqlo in Tokyo for the latest in street style clothing.
“There is this effortlessly cool vibe,” she says. “You look at the racks and immediately question how the style will come together, but then you’ll roam through a neighborhood and see the kawaii mixed with modern, clean lines, the ultra-feminine made boxy, and Lolita-esque trends rubbing elbows with retro and punk looks straight out of the 80s. You get it. The Japanese know how to wear clothes.”
Northeast of Shinjuku is Kabukicho, the nightlife district filled with bars, massage parlors and hostess clubs. Try a robot restaurant and snap a picture of an over-the-top Japanese-motif cabaret show that can be ultra tacky and super flashy. Make sure to leave the kids behind.
For a visit to the traditional part of the city, visit Nakamise-dōri, the street leading to the Sensō-ji temple in Asakusa. Tourists are asked to wash their hands in the fountain and light incense to cleanse their spirits. For a small fee, you may also pick a fortune stick that corresponds to a drawer with a piece of paper that forecasts your future. If it happens to be unlucky, tie the paper to a nearby tree branch and let the bad vibes blow away.
Finally, at the main temple hall, throw a few coins at the statue of the Buddha, clap hard two times to awaken the spirits and then bow slowly to show respect. It’s a truly calming experience in contrast with the constant stimulation of Tokyo.
HAKONE
Many people take day trips to Hakone—about an hour’s drive from Tokyo. But an overnight stay will give you a full, authentic experience. Reserve a ryokan—a traditional Japanese inn featuring tatami-matted rooms, low-to-the-ground tea tables and large windows surrounded by natural waterfalls or lush gardens. Senkyoro Ryokan Hakone offers an onsen—a hot spring bathing experience (generally nude) used for therapeutic healing. Onsens are separated by gender, but couples and families may book a private experience at Senkyoro, where the hot springs pool is outdoors in a rock garden under the stars.
“My favorite onsen experiences are the outdoor ones, especially in the fall and winter,” says Quon. “There is nothing more refreshing than the contrast of crisp, cold air and the hot spring waters.”
Quon warns that visitors with tattoos might not be allowed in, but some onsens are tattoo-friendly and permit bathing suits.
A trip to Hokone isn’t complete without a cruise on Lake Ashi—the modern way to view the majestic Mt. Fuji from the water. Don’t skip the walk to Hakone Shrine—sacred to the Samari in the 10th century—located up the mountain from the lake. At the base of the mountain is a red gate, or torii, submerged in water—an iconic photo op for you and your travel companions.
KYOTO
Take the shinkansen, Japan’s famous bullet train, and arrive in Kyoto in less than two hours from Hakone. Make sure to bring your camera or book a photoshoot of you and your family strolling through the pathways in the Sagano Bamboo Forrest surrounded by soaring stalks of mōsō bamboo that block the sunlight, creating an otherworldly, sublime experience.
Kyoto’s traditions and modern experiences are combined at Maikoya’s kimono and tea ceremony in Gion, the city’s famous geisha district. Women and men are first dressed separately in silk kimonos or yukatas (robes), with hair accessories and flowers included. Walk in your geta (wooden shoes) to the garden room and learn the history of the matcha tea ceremony while making your own.
After finishing the green tea and wagashi (sweets), enjoy an opportunity to discover the historical district dressed in your kimono or take pictures in the manicured gardens. A visit to Gion is not complete without meeting a geisha or maiko (trainee). The kaiseki dinner experience at Hanasaki offers a seasonal progressive Japanese meal served by a maiko. These young women, who are very well respected in Japanese culture, have chosen to dedicate their lives to studying the traditional art of dance and entertainment. While you eat, the maiko will perform and serve drinks, especially to the males in your party.
The Japanese love their animal encounters, and the deer at Nara Park feel the same about the people who feed and pet them outside Todai-ji temple. This “large temple of the east” houses the Great Buddha statue, which stands 50 feet high.
Don’t leave Japan without seeing “the mother of all shrines,” Fushimi Inari. This shrine is known for its tunnels of more than 10,000 closely-spaced vermilion torii gates that wind over the hills of Mount Inari. Worshippers have donated torii gates to express prayers and appreciation since the Edo period (1603-1869). Now the gates are used for stylish photo ops and artful poses along the arduous trek to the summit, which could take two to three hours.
“Take your time walking through the sites and streets of Japan, when you visit,” advises Quon. “From new convenient stores next to decades-old izakayas (local bars) to yukatas replacing kimonos for casual everyday wear, there seems to be a balancing act in play that everyone accepts. You can’t capture all the moments, but the mental pictures you’ll take from the culture will last a lifetime.”
KRISHA CHACHRA is a Charlotte-based travel writer for regional and national magazines. She has visited more than 50 countries on six continents and loves exploring new destinations with her family.
Portions of this article appeared in the Fall 2024 issue of Ballantyne Magazine.