Record-setting fires that recently ravaged California's Napa Valley wine country had direct consequences for the St. Louis team of the fairly new and burgeoning Gagnon-Kennedy Vineyards.
Clayton resident Michael Kennedy, founder/partner of Component Wine Company in 2015 and Gagnon-Kennedy Vineyards in 2018, confirms what would have been his 8th vintage this year will have to be skipped due to lack of sunlight from the smoke layer hovering over the plants and the tainted flavor effects to the grapes from a thick coating of fire ashes.
"However, we have a scattering of grapes grown in Napa, as well as some in Washington, Oregon, Tuscany and Bourdeaux. So while this is the first time we've been materially affected by fires, we had a beautiful 2019 vintage to help us through and we're very concerned about others valley-wide who lost more than we did," says Michael.
Michael's co-founder is experienced, high-scoring winemaker Marc Gagnon, a self-proclaimed existential hedonist in The Golden State.
Cottleville residents Pamela and Kelly Gardner invested in Gagnon-Kennedy Vineyards during April 2020, so they, too, kept an eye peeled to fire updates.
Toasting Michael's Inquisitiveness
While Michael's wine-related jobs started in Missouri’s Augusta wine country within a Chandler Hills Vineyards tasting room, he says he actually became curious about wine in seventh grade at Chaminade College Preparatory School after learning wine is used in some babies' baptisms. "I determined wine was a large part of culture and life, and the language of French intrigued me. My first PowerPoint presentation was about the Champagne region of France," recalls Michael with a chuckle.
When Michael tasted wine as an interested 15-year-old, he recalls believing he would pursue a career in hospitality and entertainment.
He worked his way into becoming the Chandler Hills director of wine, and "quickly fell in love with wine." He soon became a certified sommelier.
Michael dove further into wine in 2012 when he relocated to Washington DC, to accept a coveted sommelier role for The Ritz-Carlton. "DC is very much a melting pot, very international. So I got to explore all sorts of wines, and to assist enthusiasts with learning about new, as well as traditional collectors' wines," he says.
By 2014, he became the head sommelier at the Ritz-Carlton's Grand Cayman property in the Cayman Islands, overseeing the luxury beverage program for six restaurants, including Blue by Eric Ripert, celebrity chef and owner of La Bernardin in New York City. While spearheading the Cayman inventory of more than 3,000 unique wine selections, Michael says he learned just how much wine is "all about the experience, especially in intimate settings."
Indeed, at Blue is where Michael and the Gardners met and realized they shared similar interests.
"The Cayman Cookout was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, and that's where I realized I wanted to make my own wine," says Michael.
Sipping Into Unique Wines
One reason GKV wines are considered different is due to making them in an "old school way, with a nod to how wines originally were done in the 1840s," explains Michael.
When Michael and Marc met, Marc poured him a glass of red wine from a fermenting tank. "It was dark, exotic, racy and unlike anything I'd tasted before. That's because he intentionally shared with me a 100 percent Petit Verdot before it was blended," he says.
That's all it took to convince Michael that marketing barrel sample wines was a novel opportunity.
"We adopted a winemaking style that uses less manipulation. We're not necessarily going for bold as much as we're going for elegance and rusticity," he adds. "It was exciting to show that unique style to California, which connects where wines truly come from. Our wines are more Old Italian style, and when people say they are food-friendly, we consider that a big compliment."
This vigneron says they achieve an exceptional balance in their wines by managing higher acid profiles.
Local Sources For GKV Wines
For those seeking vino from Gagnon-Kennedy Vineyards, selections are available at The Wine Merchant, 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton; Schuncks Des Peres, 12332 Manchester Road; Truffles, 9202 Clayton Road, Ladue; and Olive and Oak, 216 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves; and Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, 1855 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Plaza Frontenac.
One of the winery's GKV labels was designed by former St. Louis printmaker artist Darcy Edwin.
New Trio In Time For Holidays
Marc and Michael hold vineyard contracts on three of the oldest, most iconic Napa Valley sites:
- Beckstoffer Georges III in Rutherford
- Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper in Oakville
- Samuel Brannan Vineyard in Calistoga
Michael says the GKV team was ecstatic to market their very first releases of three wines at the end of last month. "One is a Bordeaux varietal that would be great for Thanksgiving. Another one is a red Valdigué," he adds.