For this issue of Explore, we invited Natalie Ballard of Golden Hour Jewelers to share a glimpse into a lesser-known corner of France that has inspired both her work and her sense of home. Through the vineyards and villages of the Sud Touraine region, she reflects on what it means to discover beauty—in craft, in place and in community.
If you speak to a Parisian, they will surely tell you that Paris is France but speak to any Frenchman and he will tell you quite the opposite. While Paris is the city of eternal light, full of splendor and delight, the lesser-known regions of France are spectacular. Springfield, for example, is an excellent reminder that sometimes, the small towns deep in the center of a country are well worth the detour. The same can be said of the Sud Touraine region of France. It is where we bought our country home three years ago in the small town of Paulmy. A sleepy little village nestled in a valley that is punctuated by a centuries-old castle and surrounded by its ‘fiefdom’ of small cobble stone houses— our own dating to the year 1600. Approximately two and half hours due southwest of Paris in the region of “Centre-Val de Loire” (France is divided into regions, then further into departments), is the department of Indre-et-Loire. It sits close enough to the prestigious Loire Valley, yet far enough that it does not command the same prices. When driving through this region we noticed a striking familiarity with Tuscany. We would later learn that it is dubbed ‘the Tuscany of France’.
Wines of The Region
Rolling hills are dotted with small stone villages and cypresses that seem to touch the sky. As we traversed the countryside, we discovered that these rolling hills were also home to excellent, lesser-known varieties of wine and sparkling wines—some favorites are the sparkling Vouvray and Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil, as well as the reds Chinon and Saumur-Champigny. Winery tours are less crowded than burgundy or Bordeaux and have an intimate feel, often with the owners of the domaines giving tours themselves, their love of the land and the grape evident in the way that they care for their vines.
Loches Market Day
The Sud Touraine is also known for its culinary traditions, serving delicious local cheeses (Sainte- Maure-de-Touraine), yogurts and excellent mushrooms from their plentiful caves and forests. Hunting game is also a storied pastime and boar, rabbit and deer are popular winter fare. In the summertime, open air markets are where most French shop for their food. A veritable feast for the senses, the market day in the town of Loches is by far a favorite. The freshest in-season fruits and vegetables are often picked the same day by local farmers. Small wooden berry baskets are piled high with the tiniest and most deliciously ripe strawberries. A treat for the little ones whilst we walked the streets wandering from stall to stall. Local vendors will take delight in giving you a sample of their cheese, dried meats or bread. No market visit is complete without the roasted farmer’s chicken with potatoes and carrots, which we serve with a salad, baguette and a glass of red wine. Nothing more simple or more delicious.
Châteaux Worth the Detour
Much of our time was spent working on our cottage or in the garden but when we weren’t fixing centuries-old windows and doors, we explored the many historical sights the region has to offer. Castles are a particular favorite, and this region has an abundance of these. Smaller, regional castles are excellent places to learn about history, stroll beautiful gardens and view spectacular art up close without the crowds of museums. Many of the larger castles have restaurants on site— there is truly nothing more blissful than eating lunch with a Renaissance castle as your backdrop. Two favorite Renaissance castles are: Chenonceau and Azay-le-Rideau. Villandry, while not a Renaissance castle, contains a garden that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its sheer size and beauty. You can enjoy fresh vegetables from the gardens in their restaurant when in season.
In addition to castles, you can find the Clos Lucé, the last residence of Leonardo Da Vinci and the site where he is buried nearby in Amboise. Closer still to the cottage was the village of Descartes, so named after the famous French philosopher who graced the enlightenment with “Je pense, donc je suis” (I think, therefore I am). His birth home still stands today.
The French countryside and the Sud Touraine region, like Springfield, is home to some of the kindest, most generous people you will meet. We have made lifelong friends there and had many a neighbor help us in our renovation process. They have housed us, fed us, and helped us, and for that we feel eternally grateful. The townspeople of the Sud Touraine are full of goodwill and are welcoming to travelers who are coming to discover their little corner of lesser-known paradise.
Our journey through Sud Touraine has been one of discovery, beauty, and connection. I hope you’ll explore its quiet charms, too.
Where to Stay & Eat in Loches
Stay at Best Western Premier Hotel de la Cité Royale or Gîte Saint Joseph. For a memorable meal, try Michelin-starred Arbore & Sens, cozy Au Comptoir, or classic French fare at Le Prosper. Don’t miss market day strawberries, rotisserie chicken and local cheeses.