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Gus's in Good Hands

Lee Pantazis is leading historic hot dog joint to a creative future

Gus’s Hot Dogs is one of a handful of Birmingham’s original Greek-owned restaurants still standing and is the last of the original hot dog joints in town following the demise of such places as Tony’s Terrific Hot Dogs and Lyric Hot Dogs. A mainstay on 4th Avenue North, Gus’s Hot Dogs has been in business since an immigrant from Greece, Gus Alexander, first opened the doors for business in 1947.

And Gus’s Hot Dogs is not only surviving, it’s thriving thanks to its new owner, Lee Pantazis, who is one of a new generation of Birmingham Greeks returning to their family roots as Magic City restaurateurs. A 35-year-old culinary star on the rise, Pantazis has reinvigorated this tiny hot dog stand. 

“The success of the Greeks was ultimately the downfall of Greek restaurants,” says Pantazis, explaining how the second generation of Greeks pursued other careers far removed from the long hours and hard work needed to run a restaurant. Pantazis went to work for his father, George Pantazis, at the law firm Wiggins, Childs, Pantazis, Fisher, & Goldfarb before realizing wearing a suit and tie every day wasn’t for him.

“There are a few of us that have started coming back to it. Tim Hontzas at Johnny’s, Dino Sarris, myself,”  he says. “I could spend all day listing all the Greeks, and I’m still going to forget somebody, so I apologize preemptively. They’re all delicious.”

How is Pantazis breathing new life into Gus’s Hot Dogs? By taking it on the road–literally. Pantazis slapped Gus’s name on the side of a food truck and is popping up in unexpected locations, such as Adiõs, a hip bar on 1st Avenue North crafting Mexican-inspired cocktails. For a recent visit, Pantazis drew inspiration from Mexico’s street food culture. 

"In Guadalajara, they wrap the dog in bacon and deep fry it, so we made a bacon-wrapped hot dog with lettuce, tomato, and pico hot sauce. It was awesome!"

Gus's food truck has become the idea incubator for Pantazis’ mad genius, and it’s not just tube steaks that get the Pantazis treatment. For a recent Birmingham Bar Association event, Pantazis created a sandwich called Tort is Baloney, featuring custom-made bologna shipped from Germany. Of course, the humble hot dog is where his true artistry shines.

“This is my creative expression,” says Pantazis. “Yeah, it's a hot dog, but  we're having fun and trying to come up with food worth eating because it's fun and makes a difference.”

As for what to drink with one of Gus’s dogs, Pantazis says you can’t go wrong with a blonde, pilsner, or brown ale from an Alabama brewery. "Right now, Yellowhammer Brewing out of Huntsville has an Oktoberfest that would go amazing with any of our hot dogs."

Pantazis, however, says for a real treat, try a hot dog with a glass of sparkling wine or Champagne.

"You can't go wrong with some bubbles," admits Pantazis. "That's a fun pairing that has no business being as good as it is. It's not as good as bubbles and fried chicken, but it's a close second."