Zaranda, the latest concept by James Beard Award-winning chef Hugo Ortega, brings the flavors of Las Californias to downtown Houston, celebrating a cuisine without borders. From the bounty of Northern California’s fruits, vegetables, and nuts to Baja’s celebrated seafood and centuries-old wines, the menu merges land and sea with modern creativity. The restaurant’s namesake technique, zarandeado, features seafood, meats, and vegetables cooked over wood in a signature wire basket, giving diners a taste of Baja’s culinary heritage. Chef Ortega explains the flavors of a popular appetizer, Taquitos de Atún. zarandahouston.com
The Tuna
The Pacific Coast has an abundance of seafood, and among Chef Hugo’s favorites is yellowfin tuna. This fish, found along the coast and in the Sea of Cortez, is known for its firm, flavorful meat, making it a popular choice for just about any preparation. For the Taquitos de Atún, Ortega cuts the tuna into small cubes and marinates it in ponzu, sesame oil, and fresh ginger.
The Shell
Tacos are popular throughout Baja, most commonly served on soft corn or flour tortillas, and one of Baja’s most popular street foods is tostadas, which are served on crispy, flat tortillas. For this dish, Ortega merges the two to create a petite taco served in a crispy shell. “The tortilla is special because it is handmade in-house from start to finish, using blue corn for the masa that also has tortilla ash in it, which adds to the dark color and gives a depth of flavor,” says Ortega.
The Mix-ins
The diced tuna is marinated with ponzu, sesame oil, and fresh ginger – a nod to the long history of Asian culinary influence of the Baja region, including Japanese cuisine. “These flavors add additional freshness and umami to the dish,” says Ortega. The tacos are garnished with green onions and furikake, which adds a bit of salt and earthiness to the dish.
The Sauce
Between the taco shell and the tuna is a layer of silky avocado puree, a blend of avocado, sour cream, and fresh lemon juice and lemon zest. “This adds wonderful freshness and flavor but also gives a third texture to the dish – the crunchy shell, the firm yet soft tuna, and the silky avocado puree,” adds Ortega.