When you first enter Joylark Kitchen, all your senses take over. First, the visual impact of the space is a feast for your eyes. Bold, vibrant and rich, it immediately sparks…well, joy. The aromas coming from the kitchen take over next - a combination of perfectly delicious notes. And then, the menu - all plant-based - will stop you in your tracks. Chef and owner Jenna McPartland - yes, of cult fave The Stand - has taken elements of the community favorite and leveled up, creating an elevated dining experience effortlessly approachable for all.
FLM: How would you describe Joylark Kitchen?
Jenna McPartland: Joylark is modern fine-dining. It’s upscale and thoughtful, without being stuffy or arrogant. It’s designed to welcome everyone. Everything from the menu to the bar to the decor has been designed to ensure that it is a cheerful place with excellent food for everyone. I believe non-vegans will be so surprised to find that they can eat happily here and feel really satisfied - good food is good food. It’s more than that, though. It’s all about hospitality. We want our guests to feel taken care of. I’ve also been intentional about making the restaurant feel special all the time - whether it’s for a proposal, a birthday, drinks with friends, or just grabbing a coffee and sitting with a laptop for a while. A lot of thought went into making Joylark inviting. It feels like a local gathering place as well as a space that’s been dropped in from the city.
FLM: What’s the guiding philosophy behind Joylark and has it evolved from your previous spot, The Stand?
JM: People connect around food. Those connections are the dearest thing we have in our lives; the food we share in those moments together should be just as special. At The Stand, we had a community vibe, which was lovely. Joylark brings some of that sensibility along with a few favorite menu items but it’s completely transformed. It’s something new and refreshing for the area.
FLM: The menu is so creative, elevated, robust (and mouth-watering). Where do you draw inspiration from?
JM: Inspiration comes from all over. But it takes a long time to develop inspiration into a dish and even longer to turn those dishes into a menu. Our Cornflake Potatoes came from a dish my mom made when I was a kid. It didn’t quite work as an elevated appetizer, but with some trial and error and collaboration, we ended up with something really scrumptious that still reminds me of my childhood. Most of the menu comes from the reality that I can’t eat at most restaurants. I feel left out. So, I spend a lot of time thinking about how to create dishes that satisfy everyone.
FLM: What items are emerging as customer favorites?
JM: Honestly, I’m so pleased to hear great feedback about all our dishes. So much work went into the menu as a whole. But if I had to choose, I think the Carrot Tartare would definitely be a favorite. We salt-bake whole carrots, then grind them and marinate them. It comes on top of a crisp risotto cake with avocado-pea puree and a balsamic reduction. The aforementioned potatoes have become a go-to, for sure. It’s sort of a play on Spanish Patatas Bravas - can’t go wrong with that. I think the stand-out entrees are the Cauliflower Parm and the Tofu Belly and Charred Carrot Curry. The Cauliflower Parm is really familiar, so I think people who are sort of tentative about plant-based ingredients gravitate toward it. The Tofu Belly pushes creativity a bit more, yet people are surprised by how delicious plant-based food is.
FLM: What’s one ingredient you couldn’t live without and why?
JM: Wow. I think most plant-based cooks would say cashews or nutritional yeast. But, for me, I’d go with olive oil or salt. I know that sounds boring, but they’re the foundation of almost all cooking. Good chefs build on foundations.
FLM: The space is so vibrant and bold - a feast for the eyes. How did that come together? Did you envision that as an extension of the menu?
JM: I think there are so many misconceptions about plant-based food, which is why I leaned in hard to dishes that are simultaneously approachable and creative. I think the same can be said for design. I worked with Thiel Architecture and Design and we talked a lot about how to create a space that felt chic, upscale and inviting, without playing into stereotypes or trends. We drew inspiration from the Art Deco era and the name Joylark. Nancy Thiel and her team did an incredible job.
FLM: What’s the story behind the name?
JM: Joylark is a way of describing myself, in a way. Larks are songbirds and I’m a Soprano - or at least, I was in a former life. More importantly, they are known for their beautiful music, happiness in flight and their diversity of species and habitat. There’s so much anxiety in our world today, so it was important to me that the name and the restaurant be joyous. I hope the name captures that.
FLM: What do you think surprises people most when they try your food?
JM: People are most surprised by how normal our food is! Yes, it’s creative, but it’s creative in the way other upscale restaurants are: We use quality ingredients and apply excellent technique, nothing weird, just really great food. So many of our Vegan guests have mentioned how happy they are that there’s finally a place for them where they can eat a real meal. And so many of our non-Vegan guests have exclaimed that they could become vegan if they could eat like this all the time. Those are huge compliments and a testament to how we treat our ingredients.
FLM: What do you find the most rewarding?
JM: I really love seeing people be happy. I don’t have to be in the middle of it, but to be looking in on it, knowing that I contributed, is truly meaningful to me. That goes for our guests and also for our staff. Everyone at Joylark works hard to bring the vision to life. It’s rewarding when it all comes together. You can tell we’re all in on it together, and that’s magical.
Joylark Kitchen
260 Post Road, Fairfield, CT 06880
(475) 999-8491
joylarkkitchen.com @joylarkkitchen