As the Editor for CTbites, one must eat a staggering quantity of food from every corner of the state of CT. This is the job, and a job I truly savor. However, as a Black Rock resident, I frequent the restaurants in the Fairfield area most often. Indeed, I’ve eaten most of the menus at most of the restaurants in the area, but there are a few standouts, some oldies but goodies, and an exciting new opening that are highlights for me in the local dining scene. The following dishes and restaurants all live in the town of Fairfield, and if you also live here, I’d suggest you start your list and get eating.
My first pick, and a spot I’d consider a “must eat,” is Esh Modern Mediterranean, a recent addition to Fairfield. The cuisine at Esh is inspired by Mediterranean and Middle Eastern countries, including Israel, Lebanon, Turkey, Aegean, Greece, and Morocco, and much of the menu is cooked in the taboon or on their charcoal grill. From the Lahmajoun Flatbread with mixed lamb, tahini and sumac to the Fire Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Black Tahini smoked Maldon Sea Salt, many dishes arrive at your table by way of an open flame. My personal favorite, though, is the decadently large Wagyu Shawarma Hummus Bowl. Homemade silky hummus is topped with perfectly seasoned thinly sliced Wagyu sliced off the vertical rotisserie. Topped with parsley, onion, and tomatoes and served with fluffy, chewy, wood-fired bread, this could easily be your whole meal.
Our next stop is TUMU, an authentic home-style Mexican, nestled in Harry’s Corner shopping plaza. Owner, Karla Krassin, was born and raised in Oaxaca, Mexico, and she honors the recipes and techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation in her family. This is primarily a takeout spot, with just two tables, but our family picks up dinner here weekly. One of my favorite dishes here is the Birria Quesadilla. For those unfamiliar with Birria, which has taken the culinary world by storm in the last few years, it is a deeply flavorful slow-cooked meat stew served with its braising liquid. Krassin serves hers between two tortillas with plenty of queso. This is the stuff of legends.
Onward to Mama Chow’s, another frequent haunt specializing in Asian street food. The menu represents a variety of Asian favorites, from noodle soups to dumplings and bao, with origins from Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, and China. My go-to here is always the KLM (AKA Kon Loh Mee). This broth-less noodle dish features BBQ roasted pork, pork wontons, baby bok choy, and pickled serrano chilis. I’m always a sucker for Chinese roast pork, as it brings back memories of my childhood when we used to take the 6 train down to Chinatown every Sunday, but this is just a well-rounded, profoundly flavorful dish.
Who doesn’t love pasta? I mean, really?? Last year brought some very welcome additions to the Fairfield dining scene, and Il Pellicano was one of them. This modern take on a classic Italian menu quickly gathered a loyal following. My favorite is the Tartudo Al Funghi, a pappardelle pasta with a savory wild mushroom blend, white truffle oil, and pecorino cheese. The hearty pappardelle holds the rich earthiness of the mushrooms and the truffle is…well…truffles just makes everything better. It’s a great dish.
England is up next with Chef Karen Hubrich, and her popular Gruel Britannia, where Hubrich gets back to her London roots with some wonderful British fare. This small restaurant not only has a sit-down menu but also does a booming takeout business, and offers guests a curated market featuring hard to find speciality British grocery items. And yes, they serve the best scones and bangers in CT. However, one of my go-to dishes is Hubrich’s Fish & Chips with Mushy Peas and homemade tartar sauce. Battered and fried to GBD perfection, these are served on newsprint (as they should be) with crispy chips and mashed peas, a side dish you will only find here (or in England). In addition to Hubrich’s regular menu, Gruel also offers a special Sunday Dinner menu every week, afternoon tea, and tons of great prepared food. This is also a great stop for a breakfast sandwich and coffee. Cheers!
Our final stop on the culinary itinerary is TAJ Indian Cuisine. Hidden behind Billy’s Bakery lies one of CT’s best Indian restaurants. There are a number of excellent dishes on this menu. I’d encourage you to sample their Mulligatawny Soup, Channa Masala, and Nadan Chicken Curry. If you’re a fan of seafood, my go-to is always the Tandoori Salmon Tikka, marinated salmon cooked in the clay tandoori oven with a side of their delicious tikka masala sauce. It just hits right.
I hope you have enjoyed our journey through the incredibly booming Fairfield dining scene. See you out there, and follow @ctbites on Instagram or www.ctbites.com online for all of the latest openings and news in the Connecticut dining scene.