It was the sound of church bells mixed with a mariachi band drifting up from the city. Or maybe the light, impossibly golden on the terracotta rooftops. Whatever it was, the magic of San Miguel de Allende lingers long after the bags are unpacked and the souvenirs tucked away. We spent six glorious days there in May, which locals call their hottest month, though by Birmingham standards, it felt more like a soft summer hug.
Right away, the warmth of the people stood out. We found the city's soul in Marco, our concierge at La Valise, who wasn't just a host—he was our first friend in San Miguel. He became our go-to for everything from almond milk lattes in the morning to mezcalitas by dusk. He even shipped my forgotten sunglasses back to Birmingham without a blink.
La Valise itself? A dream. Only six rooms, and we landed the master suite—airy, artsy, and perched above the city with panoramic views. The décor was a blend of modernist Mexican soul and clean design. It felt like home, if home were decorated by Frida Kahlo’s cooler cousin.
During our stay, two fellow hotel guests were celebrating birthdays. One guest from L.A. bought a piñata and invited everyone to join the party. It was a spontaneous, late-night lesson in what San Miguel does best: invite strangers in and turn them into family. We swapped travel tips over mezcal and birthday cake, shared Instagram handles and laughs.
San Miguel is made for wandering. Yes, the cobblestones demand sturdy shoes and maybe a little Advil, but they lead to magic: behind elaborate door knockers and colorful facades are secret courtyards dripping in bougainvillea and jasmine. We strolled through the galleries of Fábrica La Aurora, a sprawling former textile mill, and hunted treasures at the Mercado de Artesanías—my best find was a piece by artist Tomás Ramírez, located in stall #13, though we couldn't resist picking up Oaxacan linens and vibrant Dolores Hidalgo ceramics, too.
Of course, we ate. Casa Nostra stole the show—think soul-warming Italian food with a side of storytelling from the owner, Marco. Bocaciega, El Manantial, Tostévere, Bovine, Los Milagros, and Café San Agustín (get the eggnog churro!) were all standouts. We tasted top-tier tequila at Casa Dragones, and visited local wineries—Viñedos Santísima Trinidad felt like a Provençal daydream flush with lavender and complete with a polo pitch.
What made San Miguel unforgettable? Sure, the art, food, and views were world-class—but it was the connection. To locals, to fellow travelers, to beauty in unexpected corners. It’s a place that invites you in and sends you home glowing.-----If You Go: San Miguel De Allende Sourcebook
Where to Stay
- La Valise
- Méson Hidalgo
- Numu Boutique Hotel
- Rosewood San Miguel de Allende
- Casa de Sierrra Nevada
Where to Shop
- Arte San Gabriel (outside Dolores Hidalgo) for ceramics
- Arte Zapoteco for Oaxacan textiles
- Marquesa de Mancera for chic home goods from around Mexico
- Casa R Concept Store for modern Mexican designers
- Velia Sierra (multiple locations) for quality linen clothing
- Xinú for artisanal perfume, located inside Méson Hidalgo
- Trinitate for home goods
- La Fábrica La Aurora for modern art alongside antiques in a converted textile factory (our favorite discovery was local artist Beatriz Castañeda)
- Casa Michoacana Gallery for Mexican folk art
- Ted Davis Galería for exquisite photography of San Miguel
- Dôce 18 Concept House
Early spring, especially around Easter (Semana Santa), is a popular time (with perfect weather) to experience the rich culture and faith of San Miguel. Fly into Guanajuato International Airport (BJX) or Querétaro Intercontinental Airport (QRO) and have La Valise arrange a private shuttle to San Miguel (about 1.5 hours).