We’ve all heard the dangers of social media for our teens’ mental health, but what about for their skin? A new study from Northwestern Medicine found that skincare routines pushed by teen influencers on TikTok advocate for using too many products and some with ingredients that can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.
Girls ages 7 to 18 in the so-called “Sephora generation” are posting videos using an average of six different products on their faces, researchers found, and often unknowingly applying the same irritating ingredients repeatedly, like citric acid, salicylic acid and glycolic acid. In one video, a girl applies 10 products in six minutes, leading to a visible skin reaction.
Children using extensive skincare routines might seem far-fetched, but Dr. Euphemia Mu of Dermatology Specialists of Charlotte has seen it firsthand. She recalls a 12-year-old patient who had a cyst on her cheek removed, asking anxiously when she could get back to her skincare routine.
“It was startling to hear from such a young person,” Dr. Mu says.
At a recent discussion she had with local pre-teens and teenagers, most knew classmates who used extravagant products and routines.
“Perhaps it started with the Kardashians, but there are so many ways to get information now,” Dr. Mu says. “There is a big push towards appearing to have flawless skin, with an emphasis on ‘a glow up’ or ‘glassy or dewy skin.’ Some of these trends promote healthy habits, like emphasizing moisturizing. For younger patients, it’s important to focus on fundamentals appropriate for their age.”
For Dr. Mu, who was a valedictorian at Myers Park High School, graduated from Princeton, and attended Johns Hopkins Medical School, the best way teens and tweens can take care of their skin is by using a simple regimen, focusing on three areas: cleansing, moisturizing and sun protection.
“This may not go viral on TikTok, but it's tried and true," Dr. Mu says. "It's an oldie, but a goodie.”
3-STEP DAILY REGIMEN:
Cleanse: Wash your face with a gentle cleanser twice daily to remove dirt, oil and makeup. In pre-teen and teenage years, if acne begins to surface, use a face wash with benzoyl peroxide.
Moisturize: Protect and hydrate skin with an oil-free and non-comedogenic (won’t clog pores) moisturizer.
Recommended brands for cleansing and moisturizing: Neutrogena, CeraVe, Cetaphil and EltaMD
Sun protect: Use sunscreen with an SPF 35+ every morning. Choosing a moisturizer that includes sunscreen can simplify the morning routine. When the sun is strongest between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., find shade, wear protective clothing like hats, sunglasses, and tightly woven clothes and reapply sunscreen every two hours. Protecting skin during teenage years not only helps prevent sunburns and early wrinkles, texture changes, and sun spots, it also helps prevent skin cancer.
“Research is showing that one of the biggest risk factors is prolonged sun exposure we get as teenagers,” Dr. Mu says. “If that's the case, the best thing kids can do is to learn how to protect themselves now. It's hard to know when you'll be out in the sun for a long period of time, but if you get into the routine of always having it on, you’re always protected.”
While there’s been plenty of controversy in the media over what kind of sunscreen is best—aerosol or cream, mineral or chemical—Dr. Mu simplifies that too. Avoiding aerosols is the safest bet to avoid possible contaminants, and creams allow for more even coverage. Using mineral sunscreen for extended outdoor, water and/or sports activities is recommended, though she understands the comfort and ease of using the chemical-based formulas.
Recommended brands for sunscreens: Top choices that are widely available and easy to apply are Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch and La Roche-Posay Antihelios Sunscreen. For a smoother gel formulation, consider Supergoop! Unseen (or a less expensive version: Trader Joe’s Daily facial sunscreen). Blue Lizard offers strong protection for water and extended outdoor activities but can leave a visible paste. EltaMD also makes high-quality daily moisturizers with sunscreens.
WHAT TO AVOID:
Harsh scrubs, strong exfoliants and chemical peels: Using high concentrations of AHAs, like glycolic acid, or BHAs, like salicylic acid, can cause skin irritation when used too frequently.
Retinoids: Use only if recommended by a dermatologist. These are typically used for specific acne concerns or mature skin, under professional supervision.
Fragrances: Even pleasant-smelling products can lead to skin irritation and allergic reactions.
Tanning beds: Those UV rays can be as harmful as the sun. If looking for quick color, try a spray tan or over-the-counter sun cream.
Dr. Mu encourages patients to have fun exploring products.
“The only way to find products that work best for you is to sample different ones," she says. "Have fun, educate yourself, know which quality, essential products to add to your routine. Department stores and Sephora are a great place to sample how different products look and feel.”
Most importantly?
“Love the skin you’re in,” Dr. Mu says. “Skin is our largest and most dynamic organ. Freckles, scars, moles and wrinkles are all part of what makes us unique and beautiful.”
DR. EUPHEMIA MU | @emudermatology
When is it time to see a dermatologist? Skin cancer is rare in children, so Dr. Mu doesn’t recommend annual skin checks until adults reach their 40s and 50s. But for those with a family history of skin cancer and/or a child with a lot of moles, it’s not bad to get a baseline exam. As children enter puberty and over-the-counter remedies aren’t controlling acne, a dermatologist can prescribe more powerful treatments like oral antibiotics and Accutane.
"Some of these trends promote healthy habits, like emphasizing moisturizing. For younger patients, it’s important to focus on fundamentals appropriate for their age.”