The last of our Summer Grilling Series with three of East Tennessee’s premier executive chefs, including Jeff Carter (Dancing Bear Lodge and Appalachian Bistro) and David Rule (The Appalachian), features Joseph Lenn (J.C. Holdway). All three are alums of the acclaimed Blackberry Farm kitchen. Yet, each brings something unique to the table – and to the grill – as they creatively interpret authentic Appalachian culinary experiences. All three love cooking with fire and are generously sharing a favorite grilling recipe along with some pitmaster-level secrets to help our readers elevate their own summertime grill skills. Enjoy!
Joseph Lenn, J.C. Holdway, Knoxville
Opening J.C. Holdway, named after his late uncle, Joseph Charles Holdway, in his hometown, has been Chef Joseph Lenn's dream since the start of his professional career. He is honored to be able to celebrate the exceptional producers of the South while cooking over a wood-fire grill. While the restaurant uses the latest in wood-fire capabilities, he is inspired by the ways of rural Appalachia before today’s modern conveniences were available.
Grilled Shrimp
Simple Brine
· Bring 16 oz water to a boil. Whisk in ¼ cup Diamond Crystals kosher salt until dissolved.
· Pour salted water into 16 oz. ice water to cool.
16 each (16/20 size shrimp), peeled and deveined
1 qt Simple Brine
2 Tbsp olive oil
½ Tsp black pepper
4 bamboo skewers
2 Tbsp chopped fresh herbs (chives or thyme would be great)
· Place shrimp in cold brine for 10 minutes. Remove and dry with paper towels.
· In mixing bowl, mix olive oil and pepper. Toss in shrimp to coat.
· Divide 16 shrimp and skewer on 4 bamboo skewers.
· Heat charcoal or gas grill to 500 °-600°
· Grill shrimp for 2 minutes. Turn and grill for 2 more minutes or until cooked through (a quick process on a hot grill).
· Remove from grill. Sprinkle herbs on both sides of shrimp skewers. Serve immediately.
On His Recipe
“This brine is as basic as it gets. Add different aromatics for more flavor. Bay leaves, peppercorns, and different herbs infuse flavor to proteins. Brines are great for fish, chicken and pork. Fish filets should be brined an hour; pork and chicken overnight (around 12 hours). This recipe is easy to scale up for larger quantities.”
On Grilling at His Restaurant
“We have a wood-burning oven and a charcoal grill made in Barcelona. This grill is so insulated you can stand right in front of it and it’s not even hot. We can put the grate literally inches from a 2 to 3-inch bed of coals, almost on the fire itself, to get a sear on a steak that you can’t get any other way. There’s a caramelization on meat you get from fire you can’t get from a gas grill, or that distinct smoke flavor on proteins or vegetables you can’t replicate. It’s unmatched. We grilled a vegetarian cabbage and acorn squash winter salad, but it tasted like it had bacon!”
On Grilling at Home
“On Sundays, I like to cook for my parents who live in West Knoxville. That’s where my Green Egg lives now because my wife and I have a downtown condo, which means we use our community gas grill. I really like the charcoal and wood flavor you get from the Green Egg, but the gas grill works for convenience. I can cook everything on it, even in the middle of winter. One tip, I use a baking sheet with two layers of aluminum foil, put the raw product on the top, then throw it away once everything is on the grill. The second sheet is ready for the cooked food. I have to take an elevator back to my condo, so it’s more efficient with trips back and forth and less to wash up.”
On Grilling Tips
“Preheat for a hot grill. Fish is not fatty. I like cooking tuna and shrimp that are thin, hot, and fast. If it’s a thicker piece of fish, like grouper, it will take longer, but not longer than 10 minutes. Use a food thermometer and don’t overcook. Be present when you grill and not focused on other things – and don’t move it a lot. Four times is more than enough. I don’t focus on grill lines. I look for browning and caramelization of the protein itself – getting those golden hues of the browning.”
On Today’s Home Grillers
“There’s so much to choose from…pellet fed grills like Traegers, ceramic Kamado grills, gas grills, built-in fire pits. With grills, I try to keep it simple. I love Kamado because it’s just fire and controlling the damper to understand the heat. Once you understand the mechanics of temperature control you can make whatever grill work. A Weber Smokey Joe was the first grill I bought. I was young, working in the butcher shop at Butler and Bailey and the owner coached me early on about grilling. So, at the end of the day, the one I keep literally in the back of my truck is a Weber Smokey Joe.”
Jcholdway.com
“Once you understand the mechanics of temperature control, you can make whatever grill work. There are ways to manipulate gas grills if you can’t have an open flame grill. Put wood chips inside an aluminum foil pouch and put it on the grate to get wood smoke flavor. “