As we pulled off the side of the road to photograph the sun setting over the village of Bauduen where little cafes and restaurants line the turquoise blue waters of Lake Sainte Croix, a couple pulled into the overlook and got out a small folding table. They then proceeded to pull out two stools, then a tablecloth, then two flute glasses, then a bottle of champagne, and then an array of cheeses, olives, apricots, and strawberries. They weren’t just watching the sunset, they were getting immersed in sunset. Seeing this simple, yet beautiful display pop up with such ease and intention resonated deeply, and I began to ponder How can I slow down enough to bring beauty into life’s simple, everyday moments? Provencal life lesson: Always be ready for an impromptu picnic. Note to self: Start carrying a small folding table in the car.
One of the things I love most about France is seeing people pulled off the road under big chestnut trees, in lavender fields, or families along the shore with big blankets and beautiful food enjoying long, leisurely summer picnics.
In 2018 we made our first trip to the South of France. We spent the last days of that trip in Provence. When researching lavender fields and hiking trails, I randomly discovered a whimsical bed & breakfast named Hotel des Colonnes in the ancient Roman town of Riez, nestled among the lavender fields of the Valensole Plateau and situated near the ‘Grand Canyon of France,’ the Verdon Gorge. The next year we went back to that exact spot and spent a month. For someone who travels regularly, always excited about new destinations to explore, I had found something in Provence that was different, a sense of place that was special. I am reminded what French author Guy de Maupassant said, “There are some delightful places in this world which have a sensual charm for the eyes. One loves them with a physical love. Sometimes indeed the memory goes back towards a spot on a river bank or an orchard in blossom, glimpsed only once on a happy day, but preserved in our heart.”
Of course travel ceased and during the pandemic I would find my mind drifting back to this place for comfort, for inspiration, for hope. So as soon as travel opened back up, I returned again the summer of 2022.
What makes a bed and breakfast? The breakfast? Perhaps, but I believe it’s the owner. Our intimate courtyard breakfast, the whimsical decor, the colorful shop of handmade French goods certainly make the experience at Riez's Hotel des Colonnes all the more charming, but it is the owner Geraldine that is the highlight. Her vibrant personality and her knowledge of the area has made each visit to Provence beyond anything we could have dreamed of. On our very first visit we wanted to picnic and explore Lake Sainte Croix. She gave us driving directions and then said, “You will see a sign that says No Swimming, that’s where you go!” On another trip she told us about a secret spot among the lavender fields to have a secluded picnic. This past summer she and her friends hosted me for a cooking class which began with a swim in a pool fed by a mountain spring, then a gathering in a gorgeous Provencal home learning how to cook Farci, and ending with dinner underneath a 300-year-old chestnut tree where monks used to come to pray. Swimming in Lake Sainte Croix, picnicking in lavender fields and under chestnut trees, hiking the Verdon Gorge, and cooking in Provencal kitchens - all of these adventures feel like scenes straight out of a painting.
That so much beauty and adventure can exist within an approximately 100-mile radius is why I return again and again.
Must-Visit Destinations:
Moustiers Sainte Marie
Moustiers, as it is called for short, is where the intricate artistry of faience was founded, a special type of tin-glazed pottery and the official serving ware of Louis XIV. Named one of France’s Most Beautiful Villages over and over again, Le Bastide de Moustiers is a Michelin-rated dining experience unlike any other.
Valensole
Home to the highest density of lavender fields, Valensole sits high atop a hill just a mere 20 minutes from Riez.
Esparron de Verdon
A lush hamlet by the Lake of Esparron, there is no shortage of water activities, but one of the most charming parts of this village are the potters and artisans tucked behind hidden streets with studios you can visit.
Sisteron
Like many Provencal villages, Sisteron has a castle, but unlike many villages, that castle is built into the top of a mountain. This gateway to Provence is over 4,000 years old (let that sink in), originally occupied by the Romans and is rated one of France’s Most Beautiful Villages.
Banon
Known for two things: a special kind of goat cheese wrapped in dried chestnut leaves and one of the best bookstores in the world. A four-story haven of all types of books, people travel deep into the heart of Provence just to visit this bookstore.
Gordes
Another beauty, highly visited by tourists but worth your time to stop and pursue the many shops, take photos, and if you have time, stay the night.
Isle Sur La Sorgue
The best Brocant market in France, aka antique market. Filled with the most beautiful French antique shops, this charming village has its own personality and distinctive water wheels scattered throughout the village.
Uzes
Home to upscale French boutiques and mouth-watering cafes, bring your best camera because you will want to capture every nook and corner of this special place.
Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie
In this potter’s village you will discover many artisans working in their studios. Narrow streets lined with very colorful houses, galleries, and an ancient pottery kiln make this one of my most-loved experiences in Provence.
Castellane
As you round the curves of the Verdon Gorge, you see a chapel situated high above on a cliff and this is why you go.
Although it is the extraordinary that made me want to return to Provence, it is the ordinary that I have fallen in love with. It is the day-to-day moments - it is the simplicity of petit dejeuner in the garden, it is the natural beauty, it is the connection to the land and everything it produces, it is the way time seems to stand still, and it is the fellowship of the people that captures your heart.
One night as our trip neared its end, we walked past an ornate two-story carousel in Nice. I turned to my daughter and asked, “Are you too big to ride a carousel?” She looked at me with the strangest look on her face and said, “No, are you?” And so at 11 o’clock at night we rode this carousel; families and children were still piling in to ride. It is quite possibly the biggest joy of being a parent, rediscovering and seeing this world through our child’s lens.
Au revoir doesn’t just mean goodbye, it means until we meet again. Au revoir Provence, until we meet again.
Getting There: Fly into Nice or Marseille and rent a car. You must have a car to truly experience Provence.
“There are some delightful places in this world which have a sensual charm for the eyes. One loves them with a physical love. Sometimes indeed the memory goes back towards a spot on a river bank or an orchard in blossom, glimpsed only once on a happy day, but preserved in our heart.” - Guy de Maupassant, French Author