When it comes to health and wellness, food quality often plays a critical role. While the benefits of a balanced diet rich in fruits, vegetables and lean meats are well-known, climate extremes pose new challenges for local farms that supply communities with fresh produce.
Bryce Gilmore, owner and executive chef of the Austin restaurants Barley Swine, Odd Duck and Sour Duck, also runs River Field Farm near Lockhart. As a farm-to-table restaurant owner, he sees firsthand how climate change impacts local restaurants and the wider community.
“The weather we’re experiencing is unpredictable,” the Michelin star recipient said. “We never know how long or how hot our summers will be or when deep freezes will hit. Harvests are smaller, and produce is less flavorful. Farmers are implementing strategies to combat these issues, like using shade cloths and high tunnels to protect crops.”
River Field Farm cultivates an acre but could expand to 20 acres if a reliable water source can be secured. However, water scarcity has become a critical issue statewide.
“Some farms in South Texas have run out of water and had to shut down,” Gilmore said. “I thought the pond on my farm would be a good resource, but it’s completely dried up due to extreme heat and drought. A well might make sense, but we can’t be sure if the groundwater is enough to justify the cost.”
Instead, Gilmore relies on city water, with monthly bills exceeding $1,000 in the summer, costs often passed on to consumers.
At Boggy Creek Farms in East Austin, climate impacts are equally challenging. Walking the five-acre farm, field coordinator Justin Liut said they’ve collected rainwater for years solely for their greenhouse crops.
“We have to plan well in advance for water and droughts,” Liut said. “Water is a finite resource, and a quick look around our greenbelts shows the difference from a decade ago.”
Shrinking water supplies, heat waves lasting from April to October, and pest pressures have slashed harvests, limiting food for the community.
“Small farms face unique challenges that big commercial farms don’t,” Gilmore said. “If consumers don’t understand these differences, food supply issues may worsen. Many commercial farms don’t treat their soil properly, which hurts crop quality and ultimately affects buyers.”
Liut agrees: “We shouldn’t eat out-of-season produce. You’re not supposed to eat pineapple in January in Texas because it was picked early and shipped from thousands of miles away, so it lacks nutrients our bodies need.”
Although demand for local produce has declined, both farms touted the benefits of eating local.
“It’s important for everyone to understand that purchasing their food from small farms can positively impact their health,” Liut said. “We harvest the day before we sell anything at our market. This means the food is at its most nutritious, and that’s a very good thing.”