Memphis is filled with spaces that are comfortable and homey, based on the decor, the lighting or the location, yet the most important factor is the people. Luc Olsen, Beverage Director at JEM Restaurant in the Edge District, is a person who creates a welcome and congenial atmosphere. His enthusiasm and knowledge of flavors allow him to create unique cocktails, put together one of the most diverse wine lists in Memphis, and host delightful wine classes and dinners that challenge the mind and the palate.
Luc is not a native Memphian; however after living in the River City for 15 years, he has found that Memphis suits him. Luc moved to Memphis to do a master’s program in Philosophy at the University of Memphis and found his niche with his fellow scholars and among the people he met while working in service roles during his studies. For him, Memphis is a place that embodies a Bohemian approach to life and one where he can be “decant(ing) one of the most expensive bottles of wine I’ve ever held and the next morning fish next to a stranger along the riverside sitting on five gallon buckets”.
Luc has found a new passion in cocktails, wine and wine story-telling. He began at Kimbrough Wine and Spirits, categorizing wines and creating a wine club for the store, and honed his skills further while managing Knifebird Wine Bar. In both roles, he enjoyed the challenge of describing wines so that they appealed to those who were new to wine as well as wine aficionados who wanted a challenge.
If you’ve been fortunate enough to have encountered Luc’s hospitality or taken one of his wine classes, you know he has found balance in blending information on wine with the experience in the glass. He prides himself on hosting wine classes that are more than expected. Together with Charlie Purpura, formerly of Rootstock Wine Merchants, they have led wine classes focused on wines that tell a story, ranging from The History of Phylloxera to Rom Com Movies.
Charlie introduced Luc to Josh and Emily Mutchnick, the owners of JEM Restaurant. Luc was drawn to how Josh’s personality is reflected in the restaurant: it’s eclectic, intimate and rooted in personal passions rather than a genre or trend. This also reflects Luc’s style behind the bar. When he finds a new technique or wine region, he wants to know more about it so he can share it with his customers.
Luc appreciates the decades of experience that Chef Josh has and values his feedback on cocktails and techniques. The restaurant gadgets available for experimentation are a real perk of his role, and there is no menu pressure. He can add a seasonal cocktail or new wine at any time, keeping his work current.
Outside work, Luc enjoys foraging. He believes that, “foraging is basically structured nature bathing”. It’s a way for him to step out of his professional role and influences his work behind the bar by reminding him to be thoughtful with every ingredient. Luc shares any extra infusions with the pastry chef, and she and Chef Josh share their work with him, with the goal of making new flavor combinations that enhance the guest experience.
In addition to lessons learned while foraging, Luc uses his philosophy background to help his customers find the words to describe what they like and don’t like. Luc takes the time to help his customers understand how something tastes and why. This helps him guide the customer in ordering and is a signature element to his excellent hospitality.
Luc misses his philosophy studies and the ability to dig deep into a topic with his classmates; however, the partnership that he and Charlie started at Knifebird continues today and is an outlet for that intellectual curiosity. Luc and Charlie lead monthly wine pop-ups at JEM called Lucha (Luc + Charlie), a one-day-only wine menu that includes wines that are typically not part of the menu due to price or availability. These pop-ups span an array of varieties and producers and spark fun wine conversations that transcend a traditional wine class. They will be expanding the Lucha experiences with a blend of class, wine and food in the near future. Be sure to follow JEM Restaurant on Instagram or stop by for a drink any evening Wednesday through Saturday.
One of Luc’s favorite cocktail techniques is an oleo saccharum, Latin for oil sugar.
Citrus peel and sugar work together overnight to pull the citrus oils from the peel to create a complex flavor profile. Just like a salad, you can’t mess up the chemistry regardless of your ingredients or portions.
Snap Pea Oleo Cocktail
3 Lemons
3 oz of Snap Peas
A few sprigs of fresh herbs
1 c of Sugar
1 pinch of Salt
Your favorite clear liquor - Luc recommends White Rum or Gin
Club Soda
Peel your citrus. Mind the pith; it is full of tannin that can make the oleo bitter. Make sure you see some citrus pores from the underside. Set the citrus sections aside to be juiced the following day.
Toss the peels in sugar to coat with just a pinch of salt. Put into a container and refrigerate overnight.
After the mixture has rested overnight, pull out the sugary peels and replace with a handful of snap peas and your favorite fresh herbs.
Muddle the snap peas and herbs in the oily sugary mix. This step should not be done the day before. If it sits overnight, it will pull too much chlorophyll and tannin, making it bitter.
Let this mixture sit for an hour and taste. If you are happy with the flavor, add the juice from the citrus sections. If the flavor is weak, add more sugar, muddle again, and check in another 30 minutes and then add the lemon juice. Strain mixture.
You now have a flavorful, colorful, and slightly sweet juice, a sweet and sour for grownups. Add more sugar if it is too tart or if you just want it sweeter.
The fun part! Here are 3 options for using your juice:
- Combine two oz. of Snap Pea Olea with 1.5 oz. of white rum. Top with club soda.
- Mix it with some iced green tea for a mocktail.
- Toss it in a gin and tonic.
Whatever you choose, have fun finding a glass that is as pretty as the drink. Cheers!