In the United States, the North and South are often referred to as if they were siblings. If the analogy holds, then they are certainly siblings raised on opposite sides of the table. In the culinary world, the North insists on precision, while the South cooks with passion and improvisation. Italy is no different. From the snow-dusted Dolomites of the North to the citrus groves of Sicily, Italy is divided in a similar fashion — in accents, attitudes and particularly at the dinner table.
I’ve been fortunate to have had many opportunities to traverse up and down the Boot, walking through vineyards in Piemonte and hunting for lunch in Corleone, and one thing is certain: to know Italy is to understand the delicious balance between its two souls.
Regardless of where you may travel in Italy, it’s fair to say that you will encounter mountains or rolling hills; it’s simply a stunning landscape. Northern Italy is unique in the grandeur of the mountains, from the high peaks of the Alps, the stunning white rock faces of the Dolomites and the rolling hills of Piemonte and Alto Adige, to the coast in and around Genoa. Some might say you can experience all that Italy has on offer without venturing further south.
One of the more thrilling entrances to Northern Italy is driving through Mont Blanc (yes, through). The 7.2-mile tunnel road that takes you from Chamonix in France to Courmayer in Italy on either side of this majestic peak is not for the faint of heart. Upon entry into Italy, you wind like a corkscrew through to the valley and the foothills of the Alps.
Once balance has returned, continue on to the rolling landscape of Piemonte, the beating heart of slow food and home to truffles and where the full-bodied red wine Nebbiolo is both king (Barolo) and queen (Barbaresco). A stop in Piemonte is akin to a stop with friends. The people of this region will share their just-picked garden vegetables, handmade cheeses and meats - topped with their renown white truffles - all while popping open a bottle of locally made Asti that is a perfect pair with the fresh food and excellent company.
In contrast with the natural charm of Piemonte is Milan, the industrial hub of Italy. In the shadow of the Duomo there, visitors can find monuments to fashion and manufacturing alongside restaurants serving Risotto Milanese, situated on peaceful canals perfect for strolling at the end of the day. For those who want to stray from the beaten path, the Fondazione Prada is a great stop. It is home to contemporary art, both emerging and established, and hosts film and live performances. A highlight of the Fondazione for some is the cafe. Designed by Wes Anderson, visitors can feel part of one of his whimsical movie sets while enjoying an aperitivo.
A short drive from Milan is the stunning landscape of Lake Como. Bordering Switzerland, this region is named for the lake that is characteristic of its Alpine location. Lake Como hums with an effortless Alpine chic — part tranquility, part James Bond film still. It’s hard not to feel a bit fabulous while driving around it. There are many places to stop for a walk and a gelato along the way; posing for a photo or ten on the bank of Lake Como is a must! Just east of Milan, near Lake Garda, you can find Italy’s sparkling wine, Franciacorta, made in the traditional Champagne method. This elegant sparkling wine showcases the centuries of winemaking in Lombardy and tickles the tongue. Don’t miss the chance to sample this regional treasure.
From the rush of Milan’s fashion houses to the hush of high Alpine air, the journey shifts gears to the Dolomite range and Cortina d’Ampezzo. The sheer, white rockface is an imposing entrance to this region where Germanic and Italian influences blend together seamlessly in drink, food and language. The wines available from this region include known favorites like Pinot Grigio and Prosecco, but include varietals like Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, Grüner Veltliner and Sylvaner. These high acid wines are the perfect foil for the hearty buckwheat pasta, polenta, bread dumplings, game meat and rich mushroom sauces that are prevalent in the region.
Further south of Cortina is the storied region of Veneto, where you will encounter Padua and Venice. Padua, home to one of the world’s oldest universities and the world’s oldest medical school, is steeped in history and tradition. The city’s foundation dates to the 11th and 10th centuries BC. The center of the city is filled with fresh food markets, the perfect place to sample local blood oranges to enjoy in a city park.
Venice is what would happen if a dream got tangled in a fishing net and decided to float. It’s a floating apartment complex of homes, cafés, churches — and of course, St. Mark’s Basilica. The city breathes through its canals, and finding your way means getting delightfully lost. If you can brave the challenge, take a turn or two against the suggestion of your map route and stumble upon a hidden gem on the way to Harry’s Bar to sample a Bellini where it originated. For a full day adventure, a boat ride to Murano to see the ancient art of glassmaking is fascinating, but be prepared to buy a souvenir or two. Even here in the North, in labyrinthine Venice, the lines blur between control and chaos.
Like Lyon in France, Bologna, the capital of Emilia-Romagna, is considered to be the soul of Italian cuisine. Bologna boasts bolognese, parmesan, balsamic vinegar, prosciutto, salumi, mortadella and so much more. Visitors to this region will leave with many sensory memories and contented bellies. The most well-known wine from the region is Lambrusco, appreciated for its effervescence and hint of sweetness. The dry version of the wine is a delicious partner to the cured meats of the region. While in Emilia-Romagna, visitors have the opportunity to expand their notion of Italian food.
Nestled between the mountains and the sea, Genoa is a place where the maritime heart of Italy shines. A stroll through the waterfront, Porto Antico, is a feast for the eyes and nose — there are a multitude of ships young and old, and the scent of the sea and its bounty is all around. Eataly is a perfect spot for dinner, particularly on the rooftop patio, to experience Genoa at night. Like Milan, Genoa is an economic powerhouse for Italy. What’s more, its old town is one of the largest and most densely populated in Europe. Walking through the streets and alleys, visitors can take a trip through the last 1,000 years while climbing more than a few stairs. The effort is worthwhile, as the views of the city from the elevated corners are breathtaking.
Having savored the sights and sounds of Northern Italy, a visitor may feel that their understanding of the country is complete. Not so fast; just wait until you taste what happens when the sun stays up longer — River City Lifestyle heads to southern Italy this fall.
Must-eat dishes from Northern Italy
- Risotto Milanese
- Buckwheat pasta filled with boar or beets
- Grilled vegetables and fresh cheese served with sparkling Moscato from Piemonte
- Bolognese with Tagliatelle (Spaghetti simply isn’t used)
- Aged Balsamic vinegar
- Salumi
- Prosciutto
- Mortadella
- White truffles, with anything
Wine notes
Whites:
- Prosecco: sparkling wine made with Glera grape; aromas and flavors of citrus and green apple, can have a bit of residual sugar.
- Franciacorta: a sparkling wine, made using the traditional Champagne method with Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, and Pinot Bianco grapes.
- Vermentino: crisp with aromas and flavors of citrus and green apple.
- Arneis: aromas and flavors of green apple, lemon, lime, orange peel, bergamot, and honeysuckle.
- Friulano: aromas and flavors of almond, wildflower, pear, citrus, and a hint of minerality.
- Müller Thurgau: aromas and flavors of pear, apple, citrus, and floral with a fuller body and a hint of muskiness.
- Ribolla Gialla: aromas and flavors of white flowers, lemon zest, almond, green apple, very zippy!
- Trebbiano: aromas and flavors of lemon peel, green apple, chamomile, pear, minerality; can have depth with age.
- Moscato d’Asti: a light, sparkling wine with low alcohol content, this wine is sweet and fun with aromas and flavors of peach, orange blossom, apricot, honeysuckle, pear, and potentially a hint of ginger.
Reds:
- Nebbiolo: this wine can be deceiving; lightly colored in the glass, the aromas and flavors pack a punch including, strawberry, cherry, rose, violets, anise, truffles, tea leaves, and tobacco.
- Barbaresco - the Queen of Piemonte, made with Nebbiolo (aged 26 months +)
- Barolo - the King of Piemonte, made with Nebbiolo (aged 38 months+)
- Barbera: aromas and flavors of red cherry, plum, blackberry, violets, and dried herbs
- Dolcetto: aromas and flavors of black cherry, black plum, blackberry, anise, earth, and violets.
- Pinot Nero: aromas and flavors of wild cherry, strawberry, rose petals, baking spice, and forest floor.
- Valpolicella (including Amarone and Ripasso): can be made light with aromas and flavors of cherry and raspberry or with a kicked up flavor as a Ripasso (the wine is passed through grapes that have been dried) or amplified when made with vine dried grapes that have loads of concentrated flavor. Try them all!
- Lambrusco: lightly sparkling and juicy, the wine can be dry, off-dry, or sweet with aromas and flavors black cherry, plum, sweet tart, and floral.
We are proud to welcome Anna Gsanger to the River City Lifestyle team. Anna’s global tales of wine and cultural insights are underscored by her WSET Level 3 Award in Wines, an advanced, internationally respected certification.
To complement Anna’s beautiful story and her expertise in northern Italy, we’ve included photos from my recent anniversary trip there. Special thanks to Ginger Gwin of Air/Sea International Travel for making sure my husband and I had front-row seats to the best of Italy for our 30th anniversary vacation.
This is just the beginning. This fall, Anna, Ginger and I will take you south as we continue exploring Italy’s food, wine and regional character.
—Christian Owen
Publisher, River City Lifestyle
Anna Gsanger is a Memphis-based professional wine educator and writer who has been awarded WSET Level 3. She has a passion for exploring the cultures and regions behind each bottle. A Minnesota native with degrees from Penn and Wharton, she’s lived in Germany and across the U.S., visiting nearly 50 countries along the way.
Her wine journey began in the lush vineyards of Northern California but truly took root during a transformative month in South Africa. The wine was excellent, yes—but it was the connection to the land and its people that turned a passing interest into a lasting passion. Backed by her supportive husband and two teenage daughters, Anna turned her passion for food, travel, and wine into formal study
Through tastings, curated buying experiences, and storytelling, Anna connects people to wine in a way that’s adventurous, personal and always a little fun. Follow along @SommethingFun.
From the Alps to Aperitivo: The Allure of Northern Italy