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What a chef cooks for Thanksgiving

Wondering what a chef cooks for his family on Thanksgiving? “We like to give Brian the day off,” says Lea Doherty, referring to her husband, a chef (and butcher) at The Block.  “Brian is not a casserole guy, and we aren’t typically a casserole family, but this one is a hit for our family holiday.”

The Block Restaurant & Butcher, located in Old Webster Groves, is a family business in every sense. Chef Brian, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, works the line in the kitchen. His wife Lea runs the front of the house and the bar program. They co-own the restaurant with Marc and Amy DelPietro. At home, Brian and Lea are raising three girls, so Brian understands what families want from a night out: good food, a relaxed room, and something on the menu for everyone.

Brian likes to say  The Block isn’t a concept restaurant — it’s a neighborhood. And whether you sit inside or outside, you feel that immediately: a place where the burger never changes, the specials always do, and the chef still finds time to stop by your table.

What makes The Block special isn’t just the food — though the Scottish salmon delivered fresh from City Seafood, the tavern‑style burger, and that famous house‑made ranch certainly have their own fan clubs. Regular guests come every weekend, happy‑hour friends treat the bar like a second living room, and families celebrate milestones there for years. That’s life in this neighborhood restaurant.

Brian makes his way into the dining room at least once a night. Sometimes it's to greet a friend. Often it's just to ask a table how everything is. Those visits have a way of stretching out.

"My wife will walk by me and go, 'You gotta get back there. You've been out here talking for…'" he says with a grin. "But I think people get a kick out of that."

The Block is best known for its meats, and Brian still cuts steaks in-house. The 12-ounce Creekstone Farms ribeye is the most popular cut. Brian’s cooking philosophy is simple: keep it honest, keep it seasonal, and let the farmers do the heavy lifting. This fall, look for squash, pumpkin, butternut, late-season corn, and fresh greens. For Brian, the change of seasons is the exciting part. It means new things to play with, for example, turning house-fermented black garlic into sauces and vinaigrettes with a sweet, savory depth.

"If you're coming in to get a burger, get a burger," he says. "The burger's always there. But come back on the weekend, he says, and try what's new.”

Seasonal touches show up behind the bar too, like the watermelon margarita Lea made this summer from fruit trimmed in the kitchen. Whether you're the designated driver, taking a break, or bringing the kids along, The Block offers a full non-alcoholic menu, and almost any cocktail can be made without the alcohol.

In a dining landscape that’s changed dramatically — more delivery, fewer late nights, more competition — The Block remains what it has always been: a place built for the neighborhood, run by a chef who genuinely loves feeding neighbors.

Discover what's new at The Block, located at 146 W Lockwood Ave. in Webster Groves.

Chef Brian's Creamy Mushroom & Parmesan Green Bean Casserole

Ingredients

  • 7 cups blanched green beans
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/2 teaspoon olive oil
  • 10 ounces cremini mushrooms, sliced
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon black pepper
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup white wine
  • 1/2 cup vegetable or chicken stock
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
  • 1 1/2 cups crispy fried onions

Steps

1. Preheat oven: Preheat the oven to 375°F and lightly butter a 9x13-inch (or 3-quart) baking dish.

2. Brown the mushrooms: In a large skillet over medium heat, melt butter and olive oil. Add cremini mushrooms, stirring occasionally, until browned.

3. Season and add garlic: When the mushrooms are almost browned, season with salt, black pepper and garlic. Cook for 1 minute.

4. Add flour and deglaze: Sprinkle in flour and stir well to coat the mushrooms. Pour in wine to deglaze, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until the pan is almost dry.

5. Build the cream sauce: Stir in vegetable or chicken stock and cream. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook, stirring often, until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.

6. Finish the sauce: Remove from heat and stir in Parmesan cheese and fresh thyme leaves.

7. Combine with green beans: Fold in the green beans until evenly coated, then spread into the prepared baking dish.

8. Bake: Bake uncovered until bubbling around the edges.

9. Add onions and finish: Scatter crispy fried onions evenly over the top and bake until the onions are golden and crisp. Let rest a few minutes before serving.

Notes

Make ahead: Assemble through step 7, cover, and refrigerate up to 1 day. Add about 10 minutes to the first bake if starting cold, and add the onions only at the end so they stay crisp. A dry white like Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio works best for deglazing.