“Where are the bison today?”
That’s usually the first question park rangers receive as guests arrive at the visitors’ center at the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve in Chase County Kansas.
As big as they are, an average of 2,400 pounds, you would think a herd of 110 American bison would be visible from anywhere. But here’s the thing: Kansas is not as flat as its reputation would have it. And those big fluffy “cows” have a lot of acreage where they can roam.
The Tallgrass Prairie is 11,000 acres, the largest contiguous acreage of tall grass prairie in North America. No plow has ever broken it; no bulldozer has ever moved it.
It's “the prairie as it came from the hand of God.”
That’s the quote you’ll see inside the visitors’ center, referencing words of writer D.W. Wilder who, in 1884, was already concerned about the loss of prairie. It was once 170 million acres.
This is a place, just two hours from Kansas City, where you can escape the noise of modern human beings with just a brief hike over a hillside. The prairie literally plays a symphony from the call of more than 200 species of birds. The insects create a susurrant of their own, a rhythm that runs as deep as the blue stem roots of the grassland.
This year, 23 calves have joined the bison herd and they alone are reason enough to explore this special part of Mother Earth. But the bison babies have plenty of playmates. Red fox, bobcats, coyote and deer, along with jackrabbit, snakes and mice and more. It’s the prairie as Mother Nature created it.
One thing that the park service has done is create nearly 40 miles of hiking trails where you can see these animals, hear their sounds and smell the freshness of Mother Nature. The Bottomland Nature Trail is paved with concrete, the Scenic Overlook Trail (where you can usually see the bison) is gravel, but all other trails are simply mowed grassland.
Important note: you’re on the prairie, so there are deer ticks, snakes and more that you should be alert to during your exploration. Bring bug spray and use it, and check yourself for ticks often. Bring a hat, sun screen and water if you plan on going very far on the trails.
In addition to the trails, which are open 24 hours a day, explore the home and outbuildings built by Stephen and Louisa Jones, who lived here in the 1880s and beyond. Over Labor Day weekend, the big barn is filled with historic and beautiful handmade quilts of the era.
Take a break from exploring the prairie and check out two of the cutest little towns in Kansas. Strong City is the closest and there you’ll find Ad Astra, a lively little bar that, on weekends, opens the kitchen to serve some of the best steaks you’ll find. Try the bison burger for a low-cholesterol option.
Ever so slightly out of the way, but offering a unique dining experience is a little place called Chef Stan’s Place located off of Church Street. Some locals insist this was once a church; others insist it was built as a schoolhouse, but it’s a cute old building with original wooden floors and sparse furnishings.
Chef Stan is currently busy renovating some old buildings in nearby Florence. Thus, for the coming months, he is open only on Sundays from roughly 11 a.m. – 2 p.m. You better call in advance, just in case. (213-400-4559)
Cottonwood Falls, the county seat, is just across the Little Fox Creek. The park that features the little waterfall is a nice place to cool off from hiking the prairie. Stick your toes in the fresh water and wiggle them around.
The Chase County Courthouse anchors one end of Broadway and makes you ask, why don’t we build great buildings like this any longer? Opened in 1873, this is the oldest operating courthouse in Kansas. Open the door and walk around on a weekday. It’s just beautiful.
The business district may be small, but it is packed with reasons to open your wallet. An art gallery, an antique shop, a home décor store and day spa fill the historic buildings.
One of the more celebrated businesses in Chase County is the Grand Central Hotel. Built in 1884, the building has seen several owners, but has always been a hotel for these 140+ years. The 10 guest rooms are identified by a cattle brand from various ranches. The dining room, open for lunch and dinner, is a gathering space for locals and visitors.
While many from Kansas City have probably visited Chase County to experience the Symphony in the Flint Hills some time in the past 20 years, here’s another musical draw to the prairie. The first and third Fridays of the month feature local musicians just jamming in the street. Anyone with a voice or an instrument is welcome to participate.
For more information, visit www.nps.gov/tapr or www.grandcentralhotel.com.
Getting There
Under normal circumstances, we would advise you to take I-70 west to exit 313 and Highway 177. This roadway south is one of Kansas’ 12 Scenic Highways. However, this summer, a big construction project on Highway 177 has created a lengthy detour just north of the Tallgrass Prairie. To avoid it, consider taking I-35 south to the Cassoday exit and then turn north.