Winter has a way of showing up on your face before it shows up on the calendar. Suddenly, skin feels tighter, lips are chapped, hands are dry, and that summertime glow seems to have disappeared overnight. While Arizona may not bring icy temperatures, the combination of cool, dry air and indoor heating can still leave skin begging for moisture.
So, what’s a winter skin care routine actually supposed to look like? Channing Harris of CurateMD Skin Bar and Wellness Clinic and Parisa Afshari of Desert Eyesthetics break down what to do, what to skip, and how to keep your skin barrier happy all season long.
DO: Give Your Skin Barrier Some Love
Think of your skin barrier as your skin’s built-in protection system. When it’s healthy and supported, it helps hold onto moisture. When it’s compromised, hydration escapes, and dryness, redness, sensitivity, and flaking can follow.
“Winter is a good time to focus on barrier support,” Harris says.
Both experts recommend ingredients that support hydration and the skin barrier, including ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and fatty acids. A good moisturizer is also essential, regardless of whether your skin is dry, oily, or somewhere in between.
Afshari recommends applying a rich moisturizer consistently, particularly after cleansing, to help replenish moisture and support the skin barrier. And don’t stop at your face. Lips and hands are often among the first places to show signs of winter dryness, so keep a moisturizing lip balm and rich hand cream within reach.
DON’T: Scrub Away the Flakes or Overload Your Routine
When dry, flaky skin appears, the instinct can be to exfoliate it away. But both experts caution against going overboard.
“Flaking doesn’t always mean the skin needs more exfoliation,” Afshari says. “It can be a sign that the barrier needs more support.”
For generally healthy skin, Harris says two to three exfoliating sessions per week may be appropriate, while more sensitive or reactive skin may need less. If your skin is irritated, peeling, or experiencing an eczema flare-up, give exfoliation a break until it has recovered.
Winter also isn’t necessarily the time to pile on every active ingredient in your bathroom cabinet. Acids, including AHAs and BHAs, and retinol can increase dryness and irritation when overused.
DO: Turn Down the Temperature
A steaming shower might sound like the perfect remedy for a chilly day, but your skin would disagree. Both experts recommend sticking with lukewarm water, since very hot water can strip the skin’s natural oils and contribute to dryness.
The same goes for the air inside your home. Afshari recommends adding a humidifier to your bedroom or other frequently used spaces to put some moisture back into the air.
DO: Keep Your SPF in Rotation
UV exposure continues year-round, and both experts emphasize wearing SPF through the winter. Afshari recommends SPF 30 or higher every day, noting that UVA rays can contribute to premature aging and pigmentation and can penetrate clouds and glass.
“If the sun is out, you should have sunscreen on,” Harris says. “It’s much easier to prevent sun damage than correct it.”
DON’T: Believe Every Viral Skin Care Trend
Social media is full of winter skin care hacks, but Harris encourages consumers to do a little research before turning an influencer’s routine into their own.
Take “slugging,” for example—the trend of covering the face in a thick layer of petroleum jelly or a similar occlusive product. Harris says products such as Vaseline and Aquaphor can have a place in skin care, particularly as spot treatments for very dry areas, but covering your entire face isn’t necessary.
DO: Know When to Ask for Help
Some winter dryness is perfectly normal. But if your skin remains persistently dry, irritated or uncomfortable despite changing your routine, it may be worth consulting a skin care professional. Sometimes the solution is as simple as adjusting a few products or habits; other times, persistent symptoms may point to an underlying skin condition that needs more targeted care.
“Flaking doesn’t always mean the skin needs more exfoliation,” Afshari says. “It can be a sign that the barrier needs more support.”