A trip to Parkville comes with a delicious new destination, courtesy of one of Kansas City’s most celebrated chefs. James Beard-nominated chef Jonathan Justus, known for the acclaimed Justus Drugstore and Black Dirt, has traded the familiar for something entirely new at The Parker Hollow, an intimate sustainable seafood restaurant and raw bar tucked inside a beautifully restored historic building. With a thoughtfully designed space and the creative spirit that has defined his career, The Parker Hollow proves that some of the most memorable dining experiences are worth seeking out.
Justus’ unconventional culinary journey has taken him from the art world of San Francisco to kitchens in France and eventually back to his Missouri roots. Along the way, he developed a philosophy of cooking that blends creativity, craftsmanship and a deep appreciation for ingredients.
“I started thinking about food as a composition,” Justus says of his transition from painting to cooking. “The more I thought about composing flavors and textures on the plate, the less I felt the need to paint. The actual composition of all of your senses, your smells, your sight, your taste and everything together, is way more complex than a two-dimensional painting.”
Now, Justus and his wife, Camille Eklof, are embarking on their newest chapter with The Parker Hollow. While studying an old map of the area, Justus discovered an indentation in the bluffs near the former course of the Platte River called Parker Hollow. The distinctly local name felt like the perfect fit.
The couple designed the space themselves, creating a 38-seat restaurant with a lively downstairs bar and raw bar, a four-seat chef’s counter and an upstairs dining room. Original architectural elements blend with antique fixtures, marble tile, hardwood floors and crystal chandeliers, creating an atmosphere that feels as though it has been part of Parkville for generations.
“We wanted the place to have a feel of authenticity, to feel like it was of a different time.”
The real story unfolds in the kitchen. The menu changes frequently based on what is fresh and available, with an emphasis on sustainable seafood. Oysters are sourced directly from farms across the country, and Justus estimates the restaurant has worked with roughly 40 oyster farms. Sous chef Brandon Hayden is a certified member of the Guild of Oyster Professionals, helping guests understand the distinct flavors and origins of each selection.
“There’s an amazing array of flavors in oysters. Our oysters are extremely curated. Brandon is an artist at telling people, not just at picking the oysters, but explaining to people why these are different.”
The same attention extends throughout the kitchen. Whole fish are butchered in-house, stocks are made from scratch, and seafood is flown in to ensure freshness. The result is a menu that can move from elegant to wonderfully unexpected, including grilled oysters, Norwegian steelhead trout crudo, grilled octopus, steamed mussels, halibut collar, fisherman’s stew, and monkfish risotto.
Even familiar favorites receive the Justus treatment. Fresh halibut stars in the fish and chips, which feature a tempura-style batter made with Cinderblock Brewery’s Czech Pilsner.
Justus then turns the smaller pieces of halibut into a distinctly Southern-inspired plate. The halibut is chicken-fried and served with country mashed potatoes, sage gravy and Southern collard greens.
“If the world went on tilt and the ocean suddenly was at Kansas City’s edge, that’s the kind of seafood dish that Kansas City would put out.”
For a more immersive experience, the four-seat chef’s counter offers dishes that aren’t found on the regular menu. Guests can expect additional creations and experiments from the kitchen, along with the opportunity to see the chefs at work.
“We wanted the upstairs to be intimate, so we try to keep the noise level down. The downstairs is kind of raucous. The chef's counter has snacks that are all off menu in addition to what the diners order from the menu."
Whether you dine upstairs or at their chef’s counter, Justus offers a simple invitation: come curious.
The Parker Hollow is located at 100 Main Street in Parkville. Reservations are recommended. For more information, visit theparkerhollow.com.
There’s an amazing array of flavors in oysters. Our oysters are extremely curated.
The actual composition of all of your senses, your smells, your sight, your taste and everything together, is way more complex than a two-dimensional painting.