America’s oldest national park, Yellowstone has been captivating visitors since the 1870s. Mountain peaks, thundering waterfalls, extraordinary geothermal features are all big draws of this 3471 square mile park, but even more is the abundant wildlife you will witness as you traverse this beautifully preserved land in America's true wild west. This is the land of wild bison, untamed bears, roaming wolves, and majestic elk. Traveling in this remote corner of northwestern Wyoming can sometimes feel like exploring another planet.
Most people plan a trip during the summer season, from June to early September. This is when all of the roads, campgrounds and trails are open (though snow is still possible at higher elevations through early July). Unfortunately, it’s also a very busy time with congested roads and sizable crowds. May and October are also prime viewing seasons with May being a great month to see baby animals and in October the fall landscape blankets the horizon.
With five distantly placed entrances, Yellowstone is enormous, and you could easily spend a week here and not run out of things to see and do. We began our Yellowstone journey in Cody, Wyoming entering the East Entrance of the park, the less trafficked entrance. We found a beautiful log cabin airbnb that was situated just a few miles from the park entrance. Within minutes of entering the East Entrance we saw a mother Grizzly bear and her cubs.
On the east side is the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and also scenic Yellowstone Lake, which also has geysers and bubbling hot springs. The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is a spectacular site that should figure high on any itinerary. The dramatic canyon snakes for some 20 miles, and its fairly steep walls boast a range of colors in subtle shades of orange, pink and auburn. Several waterfalls thunder through canyon, Upper and Lowers Falls will leave you awestruck. Head to the Brink of the Lower Falls to stand just above the roaring cascade, then lose the crowds by taking a hike along the North Rim, where you’ll enjoy some sweeping views of the falls as you walk through the forests beyond the canyon’s edge.
For a truly American experience make plans to visit the Cody Rodeo. From barrel racing to bull riding to calf roping, it is quite a show and unforgettable memory for the whole family.
On day two we left our airbnb in Cody and drove the Chief Joseph Byway north which is one of the most beautiful drives in America, a 45.9 mile scenic drive that follows the route of the Nez Perce tribe's 1877 escape from the US Calvary. The Northeast Entrance of Yellowstone is located at Cooke City, Montana. A great place to stop for lunch with restaurants offering freshly caught trout and an array of locally sourced dishes. The rustic log cabin entrance is just the beginning of your great American wildlife adventure. Upon entering we immediately saw a brightly colored red fox cross the road. From ere you will drive through breathtaking Lamar Valley, by far my favorite part of Yellowstone.
I love to rise early and head to the Lamar Valley. The sunrises and sunsets here are unmatched and the wildlife viewing is unlike anything you have experienced. Sometimes referred to as the Serengeti of the US, the Lamar Valley is home to some of the largest herds of bison and elk in North America. Just after sunrise, the wildlife-watching is at its best, and there’s a good possibility of seeing Grizzly bears, pronghorn (North America’s fastest land animal), moose and bighorn sheep. On lucky days, you may even see wolf packs, which come to hunt the elk. One day at sunset we drove down a back road in Lamar Valley and came upon a black bear mom coming down the mountain with her cubs. We were the only car on this gravel road and sat there watching the cubs play.
If you want to really experience the history and rustic nature of Yellowstone, stay at Roosevelt Lodge. There are cabins with bathrooms and ones without where you walk to a communal bathroom and showers. The lodge also serves meals throughout the day.
There is horseback riding at nearby stables where you can schedule a ride through the mountains and valleys to see the vistas and wildlife while hearing about the history and ecosystem of the park.
Hiking trials abound, but be sure to bring bear spray, it is a necessary precaution. We chose a few easy to moderate hikes and on one of them a large black bear approached our trail. We moved slowly and cautiously and did not disturb or alert the animal, but we did have our spray on all hikes.
While at Roosevelt Lodge you can make the trek up to the North Entrance towards Mammoth Hot Springs. It is a common occurrence to see Bison lying around the historic site and its lodging. The town of Gardiner, Montana at the north entrance is full of great eateries, shops, and you must stop and take a photo at the Roosevelt Arch.
Ending your Yellowstone journey on the southwest side of the park where you’ll find the most impressive geothermal features – like Old Faithful, Norris Geyser Basin and Mammoth Terrace, gives you an opportunity to stay at Old Faithful Inn where you can easily witness the famous geyser erupt every 90 minutes.
Park-run museums near Old Faithful and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone give insight into the park’s natural history, its wildlife and the geological forces at work deep beneath the earth’s surface.
The star of Yellowstone is Old Faithful and there are many fine vantage points for seeing the thundering geyser, including the observation deck of the Old Faithful Inn. Afterwards, you can explore the Geyser Basin, which is packed with geothermal wonders.
A nearby must-see is the Grand Prismatic Spring with its psychedelic hues. Take the easy-going boardwalk loop, but for a better perspective be sure to also take the short hike up the Fairy Trail to the overlook above the spring.
Exiting at the South entrance your adventure is far from over as now you enter the Grand Tetons and Jackson Hole, Wyoming. After all the roughing it, we made plans to stay at Amangani, a 5 star luxury resort with spectacular views of the Grand Tetons and an unparalleled level of rest and relaxation.
Schedule a spa day, take a dip in the infinity pool overlooking the mountains and landscape, stargaze, and dine on some of the best food you will ever put in your mouth. The Grill at Amangani overlooks the Snake River Valley and snow capped peaks if the Tetons with floor to ceiling windows. The menu created by Executive Chef Manuel Fernandez is local, serving sustainable ranch meats, fresh fish, and seasonable farm-to-table produce.
A visit to the town of Jackson Hole is full of excitement with a plethora of great restaurants, shopping, art galleries, music, and rodeos.
After your immersive nature experience in Yellowstone, Jackson Hole is the perfect way to ease back into society while still feeling like you are on vacation.
There is nothing like Yellowstone in the world, and once you go you will want to visit again and again. The wildlife, the scenery, the history, and of course mom running to the communal bathroom in the middle of the night scared of being attacked by a bear, it is an American adventure like no other, and something you and your family will remember for the rest of your lives.